Fall in love in Capri

During my Italian vacation I promised you new posts with tips from my own experience. They will come 😉 However not in the right order. I would like to start with a wonderful day and a place that made me totaly impressed.

We didn’t have an organized action plan for Capri, we prefer to experience new places, mostly small Italian villages by walking freely, and we assume that the most interesting places will just inspire us… what a misstake 🙂

The only thing we knew was the wake-up call at 7:00 in the morning to arrive to Sorento for the ferry to Capri in time. The water transport takes about 20 minutes.

We were at Marina Grande before 9:00 in the morning. The sun was already very intense. It was difficult to find a place in the shade. Life in the port was just waking up, souvenir shops were starting to exhibit their temptations outside, cafes and restaurants were preparing to welcome another tourists.

We were ready for action, but unfortunately without a prior plan. We asked Google map, which convinced all four of us that the nearest of the most interesting places on the island, by walk is the Villa San Michele . The pictures looked promissing, so we quickly and willingly hit the road. In 30 minutes we should be there – by assumption my husband, then we’ll see what’s next.

After a few minutes of the route, I felt that it might not be easy. The road became more and more tiring and the reason was not the high temperature and the sun burning us. The hill became more and more steep, then turned into an endless staircase.

We had no idea how many stairs there were behind of us and how much was left ahead. We made stops every now and then, refilling water and trying to catch our breath for further journey. It was interesting for me that we met only one person on the route, who was so fortunate that she came down the hill. After all, Capri is one of the most visited places, and we are here alone … probably we haven’t made the best choice …

We arrived to the place after an hour. All four of us looked like after interval training or a dozen or so good series of tabata 😉 I had the impression that the people who were on the spot strangely looked at us. However, all of this was not important. A modest, white house on the hill with a breathtaking view was the rewarded. I was tired, but I had a great joy in WINING this place. I wanted to go inside as quick as possible, drink something cold, and enjoy the beautiful view.

The further we went the better it was. We bought tickets (7 EUR person) to visit Villa San Michelle. It was worth it. This place is different, magical, friendly and pleasant. I just felt good there. The villa is full of light and unique elegance that perfectly blends with nature. The harmony of the garden and the peace that reigned then (we were there much earlier than typical tourists) was something wonderful. The views are delightful, but for my even greater happyness there was a tiny chapel, and some beautifull young ladies were trying theyir orchestra play with assistance of cicadas in the garden. One played the violin and the other piano. Delicate sounds of nature combined with their music and a this wonderful place. You can imagine how this whole picture was magically composing. We were ready only for the delicious dolci and we found it there. It was the most beautiful place for (iced) coffee and cake.

Look at the pictures below for yourself.

I explored interiors of the Villa with constant admiration and increasing curiosity, which was stimulated at every step with various elements not seen in other places. Symbols of animals, especially dogs, sphinx, or bird museum.

As usually happens at the exit there was a small, air-conditioned souvenir shop 😉 My attention was caught by one photo that I had to capture.

I was sure I must learn more about this place and its owner.

Next we went down the road, watching colorful, much exclusive souvenir shops, chocolate and ceramics than before.

It turned out that our walking tour took us all the way to Anacapri.

From which we have already returned by city bus to Capri to the Verginiello Restaurant for delicious food. The place recommended by the Krytyka kulinarna and I confirm these recommendations.

After returning to the base – port, we searched for information about the place we visited. What a surprise it was that the villa of San Michele was built by a Swedish physician, writer and lover of nature, animals, and above all dogs, Axel Munthe. Everything in our heads became more understandable. He is the author of the book titled The Book of San Michele first published in 1929. We immediately bought an audiobook and listened in our spare time. A great story explaining the history of this place and presenting a man who could be perceived as “different” for his time.

I am delighted with this place, and the book is even better when you know what he is writing about. Probably the other way round would be even greater to visit, so if you’re going to Capri, I recommend reading this book, and then decide if you want to visit this place live. It works for me and I will return to this and all other villas on Capri.

Aaaaa and one more thing, according to Axel there were 777 stairs, meanwhile, I found information that there are currently 921. Maybe someone wants to check in person and let me know 😉

Useful information:

the ferry can be booked here – Alilauro https://www.directferries.com/ferry_to_capri.htm – approx. 45 EUR / person, if you are earlier than the booking time, you can probably take an earlier trip, return;
one-time bus ticket – currently (July 2018) 2 EUR, I recommend :-);
for one day on Capri do not take a bathing suit and towel – you will not be able to fit into a random beach anyway;
if you think about just a boat trip around the island to see the caves – take into account that the most beautiful Grotta Azzura may be unavailable due to the high tide, and it is also worth checking whether in the town where you stay, if there are trips offered around the Amalfi Coast or Capri – you’ll see more and probably cheaper;
walking up the island to Anacapri – only if you reach Anacapri by some trasportation, unless you miss your training room and liters of sweat – Anacapri is really far away at 30-40 C, from Capri you can walk down to the port;
do not trust Google map, it does not consider the difference of elevations 🙂
0.5l of water for two is not enough to climb 921 stairs

A little bit of childish joy & Sandomierz

Pompeii – a Roman Sin City